Each Cook Ought to Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.